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Croissants for Sunday tea



Despite the stereotypical associations of the Ivory Tower replete with cardigans and leatherbound books, the life of a modern, early-career academic is not really the most civilized. I've eaten my share of questionable, unidentified leftovers from communal department refrigerators. As the school year progresses, the definition of "clean" laundry often degrades from "I wore this once already, it's dirty" to "I don't smell too bad, plus everyone has a stuffy nose and a cold, so no one will care." One professor I know refuses to wash her mug so that no one else will use it, and she'll always have something available to drink from (though even I question the health risk of drinking out of said mug). Another professor I know thanks her husband in her dissertation acknowledgements for making sure she showers from time to time. As for those cardigans, mine are often riddled with holes, but as long as the sleeves are still ~80% attached, I dare say they are still wearable. Plus, thumb holes (even if unintentional) are so hip, right?
Luckily, however, we do somehow manage to make up for day-to-day unrefinement every now and then. Like at Sunday tea. We academics know how to do tea.

My good friend and colleague, Andréa (who is also a recipe developer for sated), invited me over last weekend as part of a Lab Ladies' Sunday Tea. In a somewhat unusual circumstance, Andréa is part of a lab that is predominantly female, which is quite awesome given the usual gender imbalance (read: male dominance) in the more theoretical and STEM-oriented subfields of linguistics. It was so much fun to be a member-by-courtesy and to get together and talk about linguistics, debate how to properly drink tea (milk before tea or tea before milk), and vent about dissertating. We even had a bit of a more formal dress code for Sunday tea, to be proper--I think it's the first time I've worn actually girly amounts of make-up in ages (and brushed my hair). And, these girls are all talented bakers, as demonstrated by the impressive homemade spread they turned out:


[Top: Cinnamon challah; bottom-left to right: sweet potato-pecan cupcakes with cream cheese frosting, apple and cheddar salad]

My contributions were teacups (naturally, and also some plateware and wood boards--after all, what is a food photographer's prop closet good for if you can't break out pretty props from time to time for use?) and an array of jams: seville orange marmalade (a must for tea), a homemade strawberry gifted from Annelies, and Blue Chair tomato-nectarine jam. (We also had some delicious Blenheim apricot jam leftover from a previous study group.) One of our friends even brought a type of Northern European caramel goat cheese, which was fascinating. Yay, learning about new foods!
[another lesson I learned: apparently, the tradition is to not cut challah, but break off chunks instead. We learned this after making the first cut. :)]
In perhaps the most impressive stroke, Andréa made her own croissants. They were so delicious and flakey fresh out of the oven--the entire kitchen smelled perfectly divine while they were baking. Having freshly made croissants is such a rare treat that moments like these (which are thankfully shared with awesome friends) definitely make up for the unglamour-ousness of daily academic life. I asked Andréa if she would share her croissant recipe here on the blog, and she agreed, so it is below!

Read on for recipe....

Croissants
by Andréa Davis
adapted from Fine Cooking and sated: issue 2

Plan:
Day 1: Mix dough (1 hour)
Day 2: Fold in butter (1.5 hours)
Day 3: Shape and bake croissants (4 hours)

In general, it is best not to make croissants on a hot day, or during the summer. The butter has to stay cold.

for dough:
5 oz cold water
5 oz cold whole milk
generous tablespoon yeast
2 oz granulated white sugar
18 ounces AP flour
3 tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature
2 1/4 tsp salt

for butter layer:
10 oz cold butter

Day 1:
Mix together water, milk, yeast, and sugar in a medium bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes. Add flour, and stir until dough comes together. Let sit (autolyse) in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Turn dough into a food processor with a dough blade. Run processor for about 45 seconds, then check dough's gluten development using the windowpane test. If the dough doesn't pass the windowpane test, run the food processor for another 15 seconds and try again. Make sure the dough doesn't get too warm, which could kill the yeast; also be careful of over-mixing the dough. When the gluten is developed, add the 3 tbsp butter and salt, mix briefly (about 5 seconds), then turn out onto the counter and knead by hand just enough to get the salt and butter fully incorporated. Put the dough into a sealed container and refrigerate overnight.

Alternatively, if you have a stand mixer with a dough hook, it can be used to knead, or you can knead by hand. In either of those cases, there's no need to keep the dough cold as with a food processor, but they take a bit longer and introduce more oxygen into the dough, which affects flavor. Whatever method you use, make sure the dough passes the windowpane test as above.

Day 2:
Prepare the butter block as follows. Take the butter out of the fridge, and cut into
1/2" thick pieces, and lay them out on a sheet of parchment or wax paper into a roughly square pattern, with edges of pieces touching. Take another sheet of parchment or wax paper and lay over the butter. With a rolling pin, gently smash and pound the butter, then start rolling, so that the pieces of butter meld into each other. Roll out into a 7.5" square, then refrigerate while you roll out the dough.

Take the dough out of the fridge. Lightly flour the counter, and lay the dough out. Roll out dough to a rectangle that is about 10" square. Take the butter out of the refrigerator. If it is cold but pliable, it is ready. If it is still warm and soft, let it sit in the refrigerator a little longer.

When the butter is cold enough, lay it on the dough so that the corners of the butter are centered on the sides of the square of dough. In other words, if the dough is laid out as a square in front of you, position the butter as a diamond on top of it. Fold the flaps of dough over the butter, and seal, so that no butter will escape, and it is entirely unexposed.

Lightly flour the rolling pin, and roll out the dough into a rectangle. Make a rectangle about 8" by 24". Fold the dough in thirds, as you would a letter. Put the dough back into the sealed container, or wrap in a damp towel, and place in the freezer for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes, place the dough on the lightly floured work surface with the fold horizontal to you. Roll out the dough to 8" by 24", with the long side spreading out horizontally to you (ie, in the same direction as the fold line was). Place in the freezer for 20 minutes. Repeat the folding process one more time, then put the dough in the refrigerator overnight.

Day 3:
About 4 hours before you want to eat the croissants, take the dough out of the refrigerator. Roll it out to 8" by 44", then trim the edges so that the length is 40". Cut the dough into isosceles triangles that are 5" at the base. You can also make smaller croissants that are 4" at the base. Lay them on a baking sheet and refrigerate for an hour, covered with a damp towel.

Take the triangles out of the refrigerator. For each triangle, stretch it slightly by holding the base of the triangle with one hand and pulling up on the dough with the other. Then lay it out on the work surface, with the base of the triangle facing you. Roll up gently, without pressing too hard (you want to maintain the layers you're creating). Take the ends of the croissant and bring them together, so that it forms a crescent (un croissant!). Lay the croissant on a parchment-covered baking sheet. Form the remaining croissants in the same way. Make sure to leave space between the croissants, as they will expand quite a bit. You'll need at least two baking sheets.

Let the croissants proof for 2 hours. Choose a part of the house that is about 75 degrees, so that the butter doesn't melt. In the last half hour of proofing, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

After 2 hours of proofing, if desired, brush with an egg wash. Bake the croissants for 8-10 minutes at the 400 degree temperature. Then turn down the temperature to 365 and bake for 7-10 more minutes. Take the croissants out of the oven and let cool for a couple minutes, then eat warm, or wait until they cool completely and eat cold.

Enjoy!

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August update: Scenes as of late.



Hi! Yes! I'm still alive! Really!

I know this blog has been super quiet as of late, and just know that it kills me not to be spending at least some time in the kitchen or behind a camera. With the deadline for the dissertation looming fast, large, and imminently, I've had to slap my own hand away every time I even *start* to think about anything but the thesis. But rest assured that I have been keeping an ever-growing list of Things To Do After the Dissertation, on which many, many recipe ideas have been jotted. So DfB will be back soon, I promise!


In the meantime, I do pop up every now and then on twitter and instagram. I mean, a girl's gotta stay balanced and sane somehow, right? Right? My doctor recently said at a routine check-up that I was healthy and the least stressed dissertator she's ever seen. Apparently, I'm doing it wrong! because all signs point to needing to be way more frantic than I am. :) But really, guys, writing a thesis isn't easy. Really. Thankfully, I've had good people along the way with the cheerleading, which makes it so much better. And it makes me appreciate the little moments that make me smile. Thank goodness they're instagrammable:


Oh! This reminds me. One of the items on my Post-Diss To Do List is to write a post about propping and food photography. (It's been more than a year since my last post about food photography, so it's high time, I'd say.) To that end, if you have any questions about props for me, please leave them in the comments below. I most definitely don't consider myself a stylist in any sense of the word, but there are certain things that I've found have worked for me and wanted to share my thoughts. So, I will try to answer questions you throw my way!
Okay, back to hyper thesis mode. Wish me luck, and I'll see y'all again on the other side (I hope)!
reade more... Résuméabuiyad

Morning hazelnut plum tarts



It's been a long (or too short?, depending on how you look at it) summer of dissertation writing, but I'm almost there. My oral defense has now finally been scheduled (meaning I've somehow convinced my thesis chairs that I'm worthy of attempting the last rite of earning a PhD), and now it's just a matter of final details, filling in the blanks in the argumentation, and writing the intro and conclusion. Almoooooost.
This is the first dessert I've made in months. Given my self-imposed thesis hermitude, I've missed so much of summer's great fruit, so I wanted to take advantage of the tail end of stone fruit season before it disappeared altogether. This hazelnut plum tart is sort of a hybrid of a cake-y tart, with a thick, almost linzer-torte-like base and slices of fruit baked in on top. The secret to this "morning" tart is that the dough itself is spiked with orange zest and just ever so subtle of a hint of Turkish coffee and cardamom--enough to give the tart a dark and complex depth without stealing the scene with too much coffee flavor. It's a barely-there roasted spice flavor that helps to enhance the hazelnuts, alongside the brightness that the orange and plums provide.
It's going to be a bit slow-going while I try to reacclimate to "normal" life after my myopically-focused dissertation summer, but hopefully this also means the beginning of many more desserts coming out of the kitchen again.

(P.S. See that teacup in the photos? It's a UC Berkeley Wedgewood set! that I found at the antique fair a few months ago. I first saw these Berkeley Wedgewood place settings when I had dinner at the Chancellor's House as an undergrad, so I'm quite excited by the fact that I now too have a tea cup designed especially for my college alma mater. :D #geekpride)

Read on for recipe....

Morning hazelnut plum tarts
makes six 4-inch tarts

255 g (2 cups + 2 Tbspn) AP flour
80 g (1/2 cup) hazelnuts
1/2 tspn Turkish coffee
1/4 tspn ground cardamom
1 tspn baking powder
1/4 tspn sea salt
2 sticks (1 lb) butter, at room temperature
2 egg yolks
150 g (3/4 cup) sugar
zest of 1 orange
1/2 tspn hazelnut extract
1/2 tspn vanilla extract
1 Tbspn orange juice
4 - 6 small plums
turbinado sugar

1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Lightly grease the inside of six 4-inch tart molds. Set aside.
2. In a food processor, combine the flour, hazelnuts, Turkish coffee grounds, ground cardamom, baking powder, and salt. Process until the hazelnut is finely ground.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter for 2 to 3 minutes, until light and fluffy.
4. Meanwhile, rub the orange zest into the sugar with your fingertips. Slowly add the sugar into the butter, creaming thoroughly until well-incorporated and aerated. 5. Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. Then add the hazelnut and vanilla extracts and the orange juice. Beat well.
6. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in two stages, beating until combined and until a smooth dough forms.
7. Divide and press the dough into the prepared tart pans. Slice the plums and arrange the slices on top of the dough, pressing down lightly. Sprinkle with a healthy amount of turbinado sugar.
8. Bake the tarts for 25 to 30 minutes, until the edges are golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes before unmolding from the tart tins.

Tart recipe very loosely adapted from The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook.


Enjoy!
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